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Worm composting is a fun and rewarding hobby to get into because it can be easy to do and you get to compost some of your compostable items like certain food scraps and paper waste rather than sending all that valuable material to the landfill. This method of composting, called vermicomposting, is probably the easiest of most composting methods, it just requires a little care on maintaining the worm bin so the worms remain healthy, but that is pretty easy to do if you have the correct setup for your conditions.
However, getting started can be a challenge at times when you are trying to figure out which type of worm bin you should choose. There are probably almost a dozen different types available on the market, including the DIY versions you can make yourself.
Choosing the right worm composting bin is a critical choice in your success with this hobby. If the wrong one is chosen, things may not work out and the worms may die, you may find it is too stressful or too much work, things can get smelly, or just too difficult to work with. We don’t want that. We want something that is easy to care for.
Cost can be an issue at times. When purchasing a manufactured worm bin, you can easily spend $100 for a tray type system to $380 or more for a continuous flow-through bin. We don’t all have that kind of money to start something we have no idea we will enjoy. Not all bins need to cost money since some styles can be made by you for free if you already have the materials on hand.
What are the Various Types of Worm Composting Bins?
Lets start with an introduction to the various types of worm bins. There are many to choose from. Some you can purchase and others you can make yourself. While this may not be an overly exhaustive list, it should give you a good idea of what the various types of worm bins are out there. Some may be more geared towards a commercial setup, and some are great for home use.
Different bins can be made of plastic, wood, fabric, concrete blocks, concrete, and metal. Some of the bins listed below can be used indoors and other don’t have a choice but to be outdoors. In some cases, it really depends on what type of area you have available for the bin.
Stackable Tray Bins
For the typical home worm farm, this is probably one of the most popular systems out there. These consist of multiple trays that stack on top of each other. Each tray has a perforated bottom which allows the worms to move from tray to tray. You start the system with bedding and food in the lower tray and as the worms finish composting that tray, you can add new food scraps to the next tray up. This process continues until you reach the upper tray and most of the worms have moved up to that top tray where the food is at. You can now harvest the castings from the lower tray. This tray is then placed on top for new food to be added. This cycle repeats over and over.
Worm Factory 360 (Paid Link)
Pros
- Fairly affordable.
- Can be easy to maintain if conditions are right.
Cons
- Needs to be in an area where temperatures don’t fluctuate much, such as indoors.
Continuous Flow-Through (CFT) Bins
These bins are designed for harvesting the finished compost from the bottom of the bin while fresh food is added to the top. They can be a bit pricey for the commercial versions. Similar to the stackable tray bins, but with a completely different setup, the worms are encouraged to migrate upwards through the waste. When you harvest compost from the bottom, there should be little to no worms in your finished compost. This type of bin requires the moisture throughout the compost to be just right…the worms may migrate to the bottom if the compost is too wet at the lower levels, which isn’t what want when harvesting the compost.
Here is an example of a purchasable Continuous Flow Through Vermicomposter (Paid Link)
Pros
- You can make your own DIY version to save on costs.
- Larger scale composting in a little area.
- Typically made at standing height.
Cons
- Costs are high if you were to purchase a product.
- Requires proper maintenance of moisture throughout the compost.
Plastic Tote Bins
Plastic tote bins are a cost-effective option for small-scale worm composting. This is a DIY setup that is affordable and easy to assemble. Simply obtain a large plastic tote with or without a lid. If you include a lid, you will need to drill a bunch of holes or provide a larger opening with an attached window screen to provide air. The sides of the tote can also have some holes added for additional air flow.
I used these for a while in the garage and had a couple of them stacked on each other. While they worked pretty good, I found the top bin was starting to get a bit heavy, making it difficult for me to lower it to the ground when I needed access to the lower bin. If this becomes a problem for you as well, you may be able to put them on a shelf or table where you don’t need to lift them or simply don’t stack them.
Here is an article I wrote a few years ago on How to start worm composting on a small budget. It shows you what I did to make the plastic tote bins.
Pros
- Very affordable option.
- Provides a large area and volume of bedding for the worms.
- Can be used indoors.
Cons
- Can become heavy, which can become a challenge to move if you need to unstack them.
- Unless you add drainage holes and something to catch the liquid at the bottom of the bin, keeping the moisture levels low can become a challenge.
Wooden Bins
While some are available commercially, wooden bins are typically a DIY project. The ones I have seen resemble a lot like and function like the stackable tray bins. Other versions can be as simple as a raised planter type that sits directly on the ground.
Pros
- Can provide more insulation compared to the plastic versions.
- Can be more affordable when it is a DIY version with some of the materials already on hand.
Cons
- May not last as long as the plastic version since wood rots when in contact with moisture.
Worm Composting Towers
Another affordable option for worm composters is the tower version. These are simply a large diameter PVC pipe that is stuck in the ground vertically about 12 inches deep. Worms are surface dwellers, so making it much deeper isn’t necessary. The diameter of the pipe should be no less than 6″ and the top provided with a cap. The portion of the pipe that is underground should have holes drilled into it at various locations so the worms can migrate to the food and leave the pipe to disperse the worm castings (poop) around the surrounding soils. You just remove the cap and add the food scraps.
Here is an article from Habitat for Humanity on how to make a worm tower…DIY worm tower: Great for your garden and the environment.
Pros
- Very affordable.
- Easy to make.
- Allows the worms to deposit their goods directly into the soil near your plants.
- Doesn’t take much space.
Cons
- The pipe begins to fill up with worm castings over time, requiring you to take it apart to clean it out.
- I had a problem with ants.
- I also had a problem with tree roots clogging the holes.
In-Ground Worm Composting
Some people like to bury their food scraps directly in the ground. This version does not require any type of system to be purchased or built. Simply dig a hole and place your food scraps in there and bury them.
However, if you want a system that helps contain the food scraps, there are also specialized in-ground systems you can purchase. This is a much larger version of the worm tower and allows the worms to compost the waste inside or outside the bin. They are typically made of some kind of plastic and have lots of holes on the side walls to allow the worms to migrate in and out of the bin.
Here is an example of an in-ground worm composter: SUBPOD Compost Bin (Paid Link)
Pros
- Can cost nothing.
- Worm castings are dispersed directly in the soil.
Cons
- Requires space in the garden bed.
- Since it acts just like the worm tower, you may have problems with ants and roots.
Other types of bins include:
You don’t have to use any of the bin types listed above. You can get creative in what you use to make your own. Some people have used old bathtubs, 5-gallon buckets, or even made their own trays from nursery flats. My favorite type of bin is one made from a 55-gallon drum on a wood stand. Check out my setup here.
Some types of bins are more geared towards commercial setups may include:
- Windrows
- Pits and trenches
- The wedge system, which is a variation of the windrow.
- Continuous flow-through trenches.
Comparison of Various Worm Composting Bins
Below is a side-by-side comparison of the various worm composting bins. The estimated costs are just that, estimated, but are around the dollar ranges I have found at the time of writing this article. I did my best to try identifying how easy they are to maintain and if they are used indoor or outdoor.
| Name | Estimated Cost (USD) | Ease of Maintenance | Indoor/Outdoor Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stackable Tray Bins | $50 – $150 | Easy | Indoor |
| Continuous Flow-Through Bins | $70 – $380 | Moderate | Indoor |
| Plastic Tote Bins | $20 – $40 | Easy | Indoor |
| Wooden Bins | $80 – $250 | Moderate | Outdoor |
| Worm Composting Towers | $10 – $300 | Moderate | Outdoor |
| In-Ground Worm Composting | $0 – $230 | Easy | Outdoor |
Things to Consider When Choosing a Worm Bin
When making the decision on what type of worm bin to go with, there are various factors to consider. Here are some of those considerations:
Cost
Sometimes cost plays an important role in what you are able to get. Let’s face it, some of these systems can cost a fortune! You may not need to spend money on a high dollar product when you can get the same amount, if not more, worm castings from a more affordable system.
Maintenance
In general, vermicomposting is a low maintenance process. However, some systems are a little more complicated than others, which may contribute to the type of maintenance required. For example, the continuous flow-through worm bins tend to be a larger system, therefore creating varying conditions along the length or depth of the bin, requiring more attention on moisture levels and aeriation.
Location
Where do you plan on placing the worm bin? Indoors or outdoors? Choosing the correct location for your bin will allow you to enjoy your worms more. Trust me on this one! I have a few failures because I did not have a suitable location for my bins and it became frustrating until I found the correct location for what works for me. Of course, the location will determine the type of bin you might go with.
I have had more worm bins in the garage, back patio, laundry room, and outside. Some worked okay, others failed quickly.
Avoid placing your worm bin in direct sunlight, even if it is for a couple hours. I placed my black Worm Factory 360 on the back patio where the morning sun hits for an hour or two and it literally turned my worms to soup and the smell was horrendous!
Avoid areas that get rain unless you have a decent cover to redirect the rainwater away from the worm bedding. You don’t want to flood the worms out of the bin.
Temperature
With location comes temperature. Unless you have the correct type of worm bins for outside, you will need to consider the temperature of your area. Does it get below freezing or extremely hot during the summer? You may want to consider a bin that is more insulated or one that can hold more bedding for the worms to migrate away from the extreme cold or heat.
My current worm bins are outside located under a shade canopy. Our desert temperatures can easily range from 20 degrees F during the winter and 115 degrees F during the summer. I have had these worm bins outside for a few years now and they have been covered in snow and survived the extreme heat, partly because they are larger bins with a good depth of bedding that the worms can move to a more comfortable area.
Ease of Access
Give yourself plenty of room to work. Will you need to remove trays from the worm bin to access the finished castings? You will need a spot to place it. The laundry room may not be the best location if it is a tight space.
Weight
Will you have to move the bin around at times or lift trays? If you have a hard time lifting things, you may want to consider a bin type that does not require lifting or moving. When the bedding and castings are moist, they can get heavy.
One possible solution is to make sure you don’t have to bend over to lift or move anything. Maybe the bin can be placed on a counter?
I had a couple plastic tote bins stacked on each other on the floor of the garage. The bin on top would get heavy and was rough on my lower back when I had to lift it off and set it on the ground so I can feed and maintain the worms on the lower bin. This is one big reason why I really enjoy my current 55-gallon drum bins, I don’t have to bend over or lift anything.
Size
Worm composting bins come in various sizes when you purchase them. Some of them are small enough to be used in an apartment while others are large enough to where they require a large, dedicated space. The beauty of composting with worms is that just about anyone can do it because there are so many options in setting up one of these systems, whether you purchase one or make one yourself.
Evaluate the space you have and see what kind of space you have available. If you were to build one, it seems the general rule of thumb for the maximum thickness of the bedding is around 20 inches to 24 inches thick. Much more than that then the air flow would be limited at the lower levels of the bedding, possibly causing anaerobic conditions, which you don’t want.
Conclusion
With so many options available for worm composting and the high expense of some of these systems, it can be a challenge in figuring out which way to go. Think of it this way…worms are simple creatures that really don’t require much from you besides a good space to live. You don’t need a real fancy setup to make them happy. Find something you like and one that will fit in the area you intend to put them and buy it. If you don’t want to spend the money, go the cheaper route and make something. You may be able to find a plastic tote or build the barrel version I made for garden beds and now use for my worm composting.
Rick Simper has various hobbies, including woodworking, metalworking, composting, and gardening. He is an Architect full time and uses these hobbies to get away from the busy week of Architecture.